Unboxing Maker-Bot revision 10 (11?)

Yes! it finally arrived!
With a very nice greeting
I ordered the basic $750 kit,
but added on the power supply, the USB-TTY cable,
and two extra reels of ABS.
Start assembly with the Y stage
Then build the X stage and attach the two
You know what, these are the same pics you can see at wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake, I'm not gonna write.

Thing 1 from thingiverse is printed !

Printing its own replacement parts !

1 comment:

  1. follow-up notes :
    - for the stage, oil everything heavily with bike chain or similar oil. The Z bearings, the idler pulleys, the xy bars. Put padding at the end of the X bars to stop them from sliding around and making noise

    - plastruder is finicky. several hours calibrating this thermistor will save you several days of waiting for a new plastruder to arrive in the mail. spec suggests not exceeding 225 Celcius, but default skeinforge seems to want to do this. must investigate.

    - if plastic is stripping a lot, the plastruder is clogged. This can be because your heater is too cold and is not melting the plastic enough, or because it is too hot and has clogged with oxide, or because you have crashed your extruder into the stage preventing plastic from leaving

    - you _must_ manually adjust the Z height when printing the raft

    - sanding platform might help, but try other things to get the raft to stick first.

    - uneven cooling makes printing very difficult, buy the heated platform if you can. some people print next to a space-heater or in a temperature controlled box to slow down cooling

    - the settings will take a long time to tune to optimize to your bot

    - if you kill the extruder, the stage can be used for all sorts of fun things. I'm thinking : plotter, to draw intricate algorithmic designs, or to lay down resist on a circuit board ?

    - make sure you actually have the latest version of the software. somehow I didn't, old firmware can make prints fail and make the whole bot more likely to die

    - solder on resistor R16 (180 om ) on the the motherboard, near the serial bus outlets

    - if your motor jams, you can remove it without fully disassembling the plastruder. I was having so many jams that I left the bolts off the extruder-board mount, which is fine. To unclog : move Z stage up to top, pull extruder-board to the side, loosen the bolt on the idler wheel and push it to the side, unseat the three motor screws, remove motor and gear ( might have to move idler pulley around to set it free). Pick out bits of plastic. Replace motor, reset idler wheel at 2mm distance, should be back in business.

    - Bulging of a PTFE insulative barrier is a sign the temp is too high, and that you will soon kill your bot.